A chance to witness history from my skis

For Adirondack history buffs and cross-country skiers alike, Camp Santanoni may offer an equally alluring attraction. After all, the site boasts one of the last best surviving Great Camps in the Adirondacks and it requires a nearly five mile trek (each way) to visit.

I was fortunate enough to time my recent visit during one of the open house weekends put on by the New York State DEC, the Friends of Camp Santanoni, and Adirondack Architectural Heritage, when the main camp, gatehouse, and artist’s studio are open to the public. The boathouse is generally open even when the other buildings are not. There are three such weekends during the winter: Martin Luther King Jr. weekend, Presidents weekend, and this year (2019) the weekend of St. Patrick’s Day.

A splendid winter day

And so after making a stop at the gatehouse, I set off beneath beneath a sky of variable clouds and cobalt blue on the long and winding road (Newcomb Lake Road) turned ski and snowshoe trail to visit the National Historic Landmark. I was not alone. The open house and beautiful winter day had attracted loads of folks interested in the opportunity to explore the historic buildings with a full parking lot to show as evidence. No doubt that the DEC had their hands full in clearing the parking area of all the snow which has engulfed the Central Adirondacks this year. After all, Newcomb has piles of snow. Monuments of snow. Mountains of snow.

But with so many people coming, the DEC and the volunteers had packed down the road to the Great Camp, not to mention the help of the many feet of history-seeking pilgrims. And so I made good time on the route, and for the most part the snowshoers stayed in the middle of the trail, while a nice set of ski tracks was kicked in on the side (sometimes both sides) of the trail.

The long and winding road

Anyone exploring Santanoni — whether during an open house weekend or at any other time — should know that for the most part the trail climbs toward the camp as it meanders around curves and sits high (particularly with so much snow) above ditches which sometimes line its flanks. After the initial climb, I removed an additional clothing layer before I became too warm and sweaty, which was a good call since I knew I’d be walking around the buildings of the camp for a while and the sweatier I was the more likely I’d become cold once I stopped skiing.

About a mile into the ski, I reached the camp’s farm complex, and while those buildings were not open as part of the open house, I paused to have a look around and to take a few photos. From there I continued my trek, mostly climbing but here and there enjoying some respite from the effort with a downhill stretch.

I passed many people going in both directions on the trail as I went. The parking lot had not misled me regarding the popularity of the destination. I was making good progress, and I stopped occasionally for more photos before topping the hill which drops toward Newcomb Lake and Santanoni's main camp. From there my pace quickened as the final mile or so to the camp is largely flat and downhill, and I stopped for more photos at the bridge which spans the finger of Upper Duck Hole which connects Lower Duck Hole with Newcomb Lake.

Santanoni

Once at the main camp — which was first built in 1893 and owned by Robert and Anna Pruyn — I stepped out of my skis and ducked away from the wind coming off the lake to grab some food, water, and to re-don my extra clothing layer in order to help me stay warm while I walked around. With that I wandered through the main lodge, marveling how one room went into another and then another and then another, while admiring the view of ice-covered Newcomb Lake through the trees from the sweeping porch. I believe if I had been at Santanoni during the camp’s heyday I would have wanted to spend time no place else, but the wind on this day was chilly and a bit less inviting to remain on the porch for too long.

I bumped into some friends, who, like others who had made the trip with their kids, were having a picnic in the main room of the lodge. I continued wandering until I eventually found my way to the artist’s studio (built by the Pruyns for their son Edward) where a tightly packed crowd of folks was enjoying a warm fire and hot cocoa and tea thanks to a crew of volunteers who were sleeping there for a few nights in order to make the event possible.

The room was warm and friendly, and I was able to ease my cold fingers back into life while I chatted with folks and learned more about both the camp and their efforts to show others – like me – its story. The volunteers were happy to share such information, and everyone seemed to be in a joyful mood with a warm place to unwind and hot cocoa after a wintry outdoor adventure will have that effect. This excitement of other people added to my experience and I found myself thinking that I may have to return to Santanoni for a future open house weekend.

The return trip

Buoyed by chocolate and pleasant conversation, I left the gathering to continue poking around the lodge for more photos, and stopped at the refurbished boat house (the snow load on which was immense) before clipping on my skis for the return trip. A wave of folks had departed shortly before me so I was soon passing them on the long climb from Newcomb Lake before I found myself cruising on easy downhills for much of the trip back to the parking area. It’s always nice when the return journey — when you’re generally more tired — is easier than the outbound trip.

With gravity on my side (the return trip took less time than the outgoing ski), I soon found myself again admiring the stonework on some of the buildings of the farm, and not long after that I was arriving at the parking area and car where more food and water welcomed my tired body. I was soon off to the Newcomb AIC where a warm visitor center (and bathrooms for changing) are available.

We still have a lot of winter left and snowshoers and skiers should plan their next winter adventure by checking out our lodging and dining pages. And not only is another winter open house at Santanoni approaching this St. Patrick’s Day weekend, but the DEC, the Friends of Camp Santanoni and Adirondack Architectural Heritage also run trips into the camp during the warm months as well. It is a great opportunity to blend Adirondack history with outdoor adventure.

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For the art lovers

An icy good time

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I have a favorite road in the Schroon Lake Region, Blue Ridge Road. It has scenic delights and fun attractions. This is especially true in the autumn. It runs between North Hudson and Newcomb through dense forest and across bridges, with frequent places to pull off and enjoy abundant photographic opportunities. Unless a car is passing, it is so quiet you can hear the birdsong. Here's how to make the most of those 17 miles.

Wonderful water

Almost the moment you make the turn onto Blue Ridge Road, there's Palmer Pond. Look for the little spot to park and enjoy the small pond, which brings the distant trees close enough to catch with a photo.

Just a few more minutes down the road, there's a combination of instant gratification and scenic beauty. Blue Ridge Falls is hard to beat for ease. It has roadside parking, well-marked trails, and the roar of a long set of falls.

The rapids tumble over a river stretch full of rocks, with a mountain in the background. The trail by the river requires some care, as it is rocky and narrow, but the forest paths are broad and easy. These shaded trails are often where the first leaves change.

It is always a great idea to seek out water if I want to view the trees changing because I get twice the leaves that way. The beautiful reflections can also put a different spin on your view, with even brighter colors, since the water slows down the light more than the air does.

Just a few more miles of scenic drive takes you to the Adirondack Interpretive Center at Newcomb. They have beautifully groomed hiking trails with lots of water features, outlook platforms, and benches to sit upon. There's also a small natural history museum, and nature displays in their Great Room.

Treasures and buffalo

The Blue Ridge Road leads you to the only buffalo in the Adirondacks! And yes, real buffalo. They like it here.

The Adirondack Buffalo Company includes a farm, gift shop, and scenic viewing deck with a telescope. Pick up fine buffalo products, Indigenous people's crafts, homemade baked goods, custom souvenirs, and all kinds of treats and gourmet food items. Their Sunshine Marmalade is a favorite at my house. Gokey's Outlet Stores are right at the beginning of the Blue Ridge Road, and their many buildings offer incredible treasure hunts. That is a good enough reason to take a little time in North Hudson, but there's plenty of fine scenery there.

As you admire the scenery be on the lookout at the edges of rivers and ponds where the fall wildflowers are most abundant.

Ghost town drive

Near the Newcomb end of the Blue Ridge Road, you might feel the need for more scenery. So look for the turn north that leads to Old Route 25. If you reach the T intersection with Route 28N, where the big hanging Tahawus sign appears in a triangle of land, you have gone too far. Backtrack until just before the road takes a curve to the south.

This is the Tahawus Mines Road, 19.6 miles (there and back) of forest, meadows, and lakes. While this paved road is narrow and has no shoulders, it is paved all the way through, and low traffic. It ends near where the Hudson River flows into Henderson Lake.

This is what remains of what was once the largest titanium mine in the world. Rock hounds will love picking through the edges of the tailing piles. Look for lingering signs of the ghost town of Adirondac, which was mostly moved to Newcomb when the mine failed. Bring a picnic and explore. Blue Ridge Road is also the anchor for the Grand Loop, which takes you past such attractions as Natural Stone Bridge & Caves and Paradox Brewery.

Choose a charming place to stay. Feed that appetite with our dining. Explore more scenic drives.

 

Theodore Roosevelt was not only one of the few presidents of the United States that many feel were born to do the job, but a true activist for the Adirondacks and wilderness. Roosevelt’s love of wilderness and the Adirondack Park would take an unforeseen turn in 1901, which no one had dreamed of and would put him in the front seat for a wilderness campaign.

On September 6, 1901, President McKinley was be shot while visiting Buffalo, New York. Roosevelt made an urgent trip to the bedside of the president from a luncheon on Lake Champlain. Within a few days, McKinley made a turn for the better and looked to be in the clear; Roosevelt would continue to be McKinley’s Vice President to the United States. Knowing everything was going to fine and to show good faith to the public, Roosevelt left Buffalo and headed to Tahawus, a mining company town deep in the Adirondack wilds. On the outskirts of Newcomb, Tahawus (originally named Adirondac) was booming with activity in Roosevelt’s time. (Fun fact: Tahawus - the entire town - that was literally moved.)

Roosevelt met up with his wife, Edith, and their children in this rural village. He then made arrangements to be guided up to the top of New York's tallest mountain, Mount Marcy, by Noah LaCasse. On September 12, 1901 they set off on their hike from Upper Tahawus. They walked past Flowed Lands and Lake Colden, and past the Opalescent River and eventually to Lake Tear of the Clouds. They were beneath the mammoth slopes of Marcy, eating lunch, when nature guide Harrison Hall relayed a telegraph message that strongly urged Roosevelt to come back to Buffalo. Roosevelt wasted no time in descending the peak - which he did in presumably three and a half hours - much faster than a large majority of all current day hikers, and under poor conditions of rain and foul weather.

The midnight ride

Returning to Tahawus, Roosevelt decided to wait until day break before he made the 40-mile journey by stagecoach to the North Creek Railroad Station. It wasn’t long before a second telegraph came through. In the pitch black night, Roosevelt was advised to leave immediately to McKinley’s bedside, for he was getting much worse. It would be 10:30 in the evening of September 12th that Roosevelt would step foot onto a one-seated coach, called a buckboard wagon, and start his “midnight ride.” These smaller, lighter wagons would move faster over the wet and slippery carriage roads and would waste no time in him getting to the train. The trip was made at such a rapid rate that there had to be several stops along the way to switch wagons. The trip would wear heavily on the drivers and horses that he would end up changing about every 10-12 miles. The first stop would be at the post office before departing Tahawus and a few hours later at the famous Aiden Lair Lodge near Minerva.

The Aiden Lair Lodge rests along Route 28N between Newcomb and Minerva, a memorial sits out front of the building. Near the lodge rests a small land mass commemorating his midnight stop, Roosevelt Hill. This small knoll, quite insignificant as you drive by, has no trail or even a view, but is a piece of history no less.

From here he would make the final push with the proprietor of the lodge, Mike Cronin. Around 4:45 a.m., at the station in North Creek, Secretary William Loeb would relay the news of McKinley’s passing at 2:15 a.m. that morning; Roosevelt had already become president well over an hour prior at that point.

Roosevelt, as the man he was, wasted no time in continuing his journey aboard a locomotive of the Delaware & Hudson Railroad, which took him to Albany. After switching trains in Albany, Roosevelt headed toward Buffalo, arriving at 1:34 p.m. on September 14. At this time, Roosevelt was still in his muddy clothes from the shoulder of Mount Marcy! He freshened up, payed his respects to McKinley and his widow, and at 3:30 p.m. that day, Teddy Roosevelt was officially sworn in as the 26th President of the United States.

In commemoration of Theodore Roosevelt

TR Mountain, a 3800’ peak near Tabletop Mountain and Indian Falls is also called Theodore Roosevelt Mountain. This formerly unnamed mountain was given a proper name in honor of the President in 1999. Standing as one of the 100-highest mountains in the Adirondacks it towers above many, but sits unexplored by the crowds of the High Peaks. A faint herd-path from the Van Hoevenberg Trail will lead one to this wooded summit. (Please keep in mind, this hike is a bushwhack and requires the use of map and compass to safely complete.)

More on the beaten path, Route 28N from Long Lake to North Creek has been marked as the Roosevelt-Marcy Trail in commemoration of Roosevelt’s midnight ride to the presidency. The once narrow, dangerous route is now a scenic byway for all to explore and experience in a much safer fashion.

For more information and historical reading about Theodore Roosevelt, check out titles by Edmund Morris at a local Adirondack store. Interested in doing a historical hike to Mount Marcy or seeing Lake Tear of the Clouds? See what a local guide can do to set that up for you. And, of course, mark your calendars now for the annual Teddy Roosevelt Weekend held in Newcomb each September.

Here comes the warm sunny weather which will include multiple gatherings with friends and family vacations!

If Schroon Lake in not yet on your destination list, it should be. Easily accessible off I-87, the hamlet of Schroon Lake is surrounded by gorgeous scenery and filled with the perfect small-town amenities right on the shore of this pristine Adirondack lake.

The town’s park, boat launch, and beach are steps from the main street making everything very convenient. Lodging and dining options abound - most either within walking distance or very nearby. Here are just four fun reasons to visit this summer.

Happy 4th of July

The Town of Schroon and Schroon Lake Chamber of Commerce will be presenting their 63rd annual 4th of July celebration this year! Activities, events, and entertainment are planned to fill the day.

Shoppers take note: Main Street merchants will be offering special deals and sales throughout the day and Adirondack artists and crafters will display their unique creativity at the Schroon Lake Town Hall.

Those with young children will want to head to the Town Park Beach where children’s activities including a Bounce Around and face painting will make the day even more memorable.

Live music will surround you throughout the entire day with multiple performances and mini-concerts.

Pick a good viewing spot along Main Street for the annual parade. The parade begins near the Hoffman Road area and winds its way through town with many groups eventually congregating in the vicinity of the Town Beach. The parade features key entertainment and performers that enchant all ages.

There will be plenty of food vendors for snacks and refreshments, but don’t miss the annual Chicken Barbecue presented by the Community Church.

 

As the sun sets, a fantastic Patriotic Music Concert can be enjoyed. This concert is presented by the Word of Life Collegians and the Seagle Music Festival at the Town Park Beach.

Once it’s dark, the fireworks begin. The display is over the lake creating fantastic reflections on the water.

Arts & Crafts Fair

Another event you may want to gear your visit around is the annual Arts & Crafts Fair.

The Schroon Lake Association has been sponsoring this event for 48 years! It gets better every year. This year it will be held on July 15 from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. The fair is held right in the Town Park overlooking Schroon Lake which makes for an awesome backdrop.

The park is adjacent to the Town Beach so plan on a refreshing swim to break up or conclude the day’s adventure at the fair.

The fair itself is a gigantic gathering of creative talent with over 100 exhibitors expected this year. Plan on finding the work of clever and unique artists, artisans and crafters; it’s a treasure hunt.

You won’t go hungry as the Schroon Lake Lions Club and other food and beverage vendors will be on site throughout the day.

Don’t miss the Silent Auction Table. There’s an opportunity to come away with a great bargain. Many area vendors, merchants, and businesses have donated products, services or gifts to bid on. What is especially noteworthy is that all profits from this fair and the Silent Auction go toward protecting and maintaining the health and well-being of the lake.

Buffalo

When here, don’t miss a visit to the Adirondack Buffalo Company; a very popular site with regional visitors. It is located just a few miles from Schroon Lake, in the Town of North Hudson at 3187 Blue Ridge Road.

Nestled in a gorgeous Adirondack setting, they're open from 10 a.m. until 6 p.m., seven days a week through Columbus Day. The farm is home to about 40 head of bison.

It's amazing to view these impressive animals as they graze on the farm’s 120 acres. Be prepared to see other visiting wildlife that also enjoy the fields and woodlands on this farm.

You will definitely want to spend a good deal of time in the food and gift shop. There you will find a variety of buffalo meat products, dairy, beverages, and fresh baked goods. During the growing season you can shop for fresh produce too. The gift shop area offers gourmet foods, locally hand crafted items, a variety of unusual gifts and some rustic furniture.

Get On The Water!

This year, from June 25 to August 19 travelers have the opportunity to get out on the beautiful waters of Schroon Lake while learning a bit of local legend and history. The Schroon Lake Chamber of Commerce will be offering scenic boat cruises on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11 a.m. from the Word of Life Island Boat Launch. All tickets are $12 per person and must be purchased in advance at the chamber office located at 1075 US Route 9 (Main Street), Schroon Lake; note: regretfully no children under age 6 are permitted on this tour.

See you in Schroon!

There you have a few ideas to make your summer special at Schroon Lake!

There are tons of fun family-friendly events and places to get wet and on the water in our region this season! Ready to head to the beach? We sure are!

Keep an eye on the events calendar to learn of other exciting happenings and stop by the Chamber office for additional information.

It's spring in the Adirondacks, and that means rising temperatures, melting ice, flowing waterfalls, new growth ... and it means changeable and often unpredictable weather conditions! One day can feel like summer and the next like winter. Some days can feel like one season in the morning and an entirely different season in the afternoon. A few weeks ago, when you were eagerly anticipating outdoor activities in the warmer temperatures, you probably weren't dreaming of packing and planning for every weather condition imaginable. But it is spring in the Adirondacks after all, and with just a bit of creativity, your spring trip to the Adirondacks is bound to be the best ever. Here are some ideas to keep you focused on enjoying your spring visit to the mountains, no matter the weather!

Take a look forward

Planning for future Adirondack adventures is a wonderful activity for any day, but seems especially pleasant on days when the outdoor conditions are unpredictable or the weather isn't so inviting. Scheduling visits to favorite places, planning new routes, sharing stories with other explorers, spreading out maps on the kitchen table and dreaming up future events is an adventure of its own. No matter what type of excitement you have in mind — hiking, backpacking, paddling, climbing, road tripping, or any other form of outdoor recreation in the Adirondack Hub — taking the time to plan ahead is a great use of time. A licensed Adirondack guide can be of great help with planning and provide expert advice! If you're in need of ideas for new activities, check out Adirondack Wayfinder, where you'll find a wide range of suggestions for adventures big and small. Oh, and paddlers, have you heard of the Schroon Paddle Challenge?

Take a look back

Need a breather from the excitement of planning for the future? Take a look back instead! Each and every one of the towns in the Adirondack Hub has some incredibly wonderful and cool history, with a rich and storied past that is just waiting for you to discover. Learning about the area's history isn't just interesting; knowing details, the struggles and triumphs of the area's past can give you a fresh perspective on life as it is today in the Adirondack Hub. You'll learn that there are quite a few mysteries of the region as well! Let the trails rest while you spend time stepping backward through the history in the area's museums and historic sites. 

Take a look around

Take a look around and appreciate a new view during this season of change. With the trees still leafless and with spring migration still in progress, mud season is one of the best times of the year for birding. It's also an incredibly wonderful time of year to experience the landscape from a different perspective as you make a return to road biking! Our towns constantly have new events springing up, so as always, keep an eye on the Events calendar for an up-to-date list of the happenings in the area!

Someday

Every day is someday. The changing weather and sometimes-unpredictable outdoor conditions make this time of year perfect for making your day "someday". You know that place you've driven by hundreds of times and have always thought that you'll stop to check out? Maybe that corner market or antique shop? The lake view worthy of stopping to linger over, that historic plaque that you've always wanted to stop to read, or that sidewalk in town you've always thought would be nice to stroll along? Stopping for coffee or lunch and peeking in all of the shop windows? Now is the time. Let the spring weather do what it will as we take the opportunity to slow down, take our time, and do some of those things that we've always been intending to do, but never seem to find the time for on our way to and from our big Adirondack adventures. Today is the day to finally stop, look, and experience! 

A special note: be gentle on the trails

A quick note about this special time of year: there are many indoor and in-town activities to keep us busy, but we are all eager to get out onto the trails and up high in elevation, returning to our favorite warmer weather hikes or exploring new sections of the map. Keeping our trail systems healthy is important every day of the year, and especially so during spring. The trails can be exceptionally vulnerable this time of year, so please keep in mind that the trails, surrounding terrain, and your fellow hikers will be grateful for your efforts to take extra care to hike responsibly. And if you do plan to go hiking, remember to walk straight through the mud (and not around) to minimize the widening of trails.

 

Vacations are in our history. In the 1800s, as train service extended upstate and city-dwellers began looking for ways to escape the heat of summer, word spread about the beauty of the Adirondacks: the clean, freshly scented air, cool, sparkling lakes, and seemingly endless rugged terrain. Old timers and enterprising young men who knew the wilderness — and how to live in it — found they could work as guides for visitors from downstate, rowing guide boats, leading hikes and hunting and fishing parties. Books and magazines — including the immensely popular Harper's Weekly — introduced readers to the wonders of the Adirondacks, tempting writers, painters, and eager vacationers to the area.

As tourism blossomed, guest houses, hotels, clubs, and summer homes were built to accommodate the increasing number of visitors. Wealthy families from outside the Adirondacks began building expansive summer estates in locations such as Lake Lila, Raquette Lake, and Sagamore Lake. The homes were built in a distinct style, constructed of massive logs cut from the Adirondacks, with elaborate twig-work details, stone fireplaces, birch-bark decor, and broad porches. In the town of Newcomb, just south of the High Peaks, banker Robert Pruyn and his wife Anna purchased more than 12,000 acres of wilderness around Newcomb Lake. The Pruyns contracted architect Robert H. Robertson to design a series of camp complexes, including the main lodge (actually six separate buildings), farm, and gatehouse. The work was completed in 1893, although some additions were made later on.

Like many great camps, Santanoni was self-sufficient, providing for the needs for the Pruyn family and their guests for lengthy summer visits. The farm complex, located one mile from the gatehouse and about 3.7 miles from the main lodge, was extensive and featured a variety of livestock and its own creamery. The produce was not just used at camp; extra products were sent to the Pruyns in Albany, and sold in Newcomb. In addition, all of the camp's staff lived at the gatehouse complex or on the farm.

The main lodge complex, where the Pruyns entertained family and friends including Teddy Roosevelt and author James Fenimore Cooper, features a main lodge, cottages, and staff quarters connected by a series of porches. Some of the subtle architectural details were inspired by Japanese architecture, Robert Pruyn having spent time in Japan while his father was United States Minister to Japan. This influence is most significantly seen in the single roof that covers the several buildings of the main lodge complex.

With its location on Newcomb Lake, set among thousands of acres of forest, Santanoni provided guests with a vacation full of rustic luxury. The main lodge complex featured a boathouse, artists studio, and plenty of opportunities for Adirondack adventure. Today, interpretive panels throughout the camp provide visitors with information on the history and use of the camp.

Eventually, Great Camp Santanoni changed hands and was sold to the state of New York, although for many years the buildings sat empty and unused. It is the state's Department of Environmental Conservation that today owns the camp and surrounding land, working with Adirondack Architectural Heritage to preserve many of the remaining buildings of the camp. The 4.7 mile gravel carriage road into the main lodge complex from the gatehouse does not allow cars, offering visitors a quiet experience that is reminiscent of the camp's early days. Those wishing to visit may hike or bike the drive for free, or, for a fee, ride a horse-drawn wagon from Newcombe Farms into camp.

In the summer, interpretive staff are on hand at the camp and provide excellent information to visitors. In addition, AARCH offers tours of Santanoni in the warmer months and these are not to be missed. AARCH plays a significant role in the continued preservation and celebration of Santanoni, through tours and its Friends of Camp Santanoni group. AARCH also publishes books and guides to Santanoni, including Santanoni: From Japanese Temple to Life at an Adirondack Great Camp, by Rob Engel, Howie Kirschenbaum, and Paul Malo. For anyone interested in Santanoni, its history, and Adirondack great camps in general, it is well worth a look.

In winter, the camp is also accessible for those on snowshoe or cross-country skis, but the buildings are not open. However, the DEC does offer a few special "Winter Weekends" in which some buildings are open and the artists studio serves as a warming hut, with coffee, tea, and hot chocolate available. Visitors without snowshoes may borrow a pair at the gatehouse.

As an example of rustic architecture, as well as a view of a way of life long gone, Great Camp Santanoni is a remarkable Adirondack treasure. After you visit Santanoni, be sure to visit the other Great Camps in the Adirondacks.

Create your own memorable Adirondack vacation in the Adirondack Hub with a rustic overnight stay, classic food, and outdoor activities.

This week in ADK news:

Family favorites at the VIC

Your Adirondack romance

Hiking the western High Peaks

A trip to Santa's house

Handcrafted rustic design

Award-winning stays

Adventures in Saranac Lake

Outdoor activities you can do at Boreas Ponds

When the state purchased the Boreas Ponds Tract a few years back, it kicked off an interesting parallel of rewilding and development. With thousands of acres being transferred to the state’s public lands – nearly 10,000 acres designated as wilderness – logging roads, landings, and thinned-out forests began the process of returning back to what they once looked like hundreds of years ago. At the same time, the newly designated lands gave the state an opportunity to improve access to one of the wildest, and important, spaces in the Park. After a few years, and hiccups associated with large storm events washing out infrastructure, the access road and associated amenities have reached a point where people can now have unprecedented access to within 0.1 miles of Boreas Ponds.

Here are some of the activities you can do in the Boreas Ponds Tract. As of 2023, several improvements are ongoing. 

Navigating the access roads

Your main means of travel within the Tract is the Gulf Brook Road. This is a seasonally-open road, which means that during the winter months, and parts of the shoulder season, the first gate is closed. The NYSDEC provides updates on the status of the road, and checking out their reports is a must before you set off on an adventure. Gulf Brook Road runs for roughly 6 miles to a spot known as Four Corners. A left here takes you onto Boreas Road (vehicles permitted), and a right takes you on foot to the last parking area, which is handicapped access only via vehicle. 

Paddling

Paddling is the premier activity here, with the exploration of the many coves, islands, and interesting inlets easily occupying an entire day. There aren’t many places in the park where you have a close, unimpeded view of the High Peaks from the water, and you’ll likely find yourself staring in awe at the slabs of Gothics or Marcy rising above the rest. A good tip is to explore the outlet of Marcy Swamp at the very northern end of the ponds. To get to these views, you have a couple of options. You can put in at the first LaBier Flow water access site (parking at Four Corners 500 feet away), and paddle 0.5 miles to a 0.5 mile carry. The other option, and the most popular, is to do the 0.75-mile carry between the Four Corners parking area and Boreas Ponds. 

Fishing

Access for fishing is the same for paddling, including where to park. Motorized access, as well as electric motors, are prohibited, and you’ll have to leave live bait at home for these ponds. The main character you’ll likely be casting for is the brook trout. Because of Boreas Ponds’ natural history as originally being 3 distinct lakes, now made essentially one by a dam, much of the water depth is 10 feet or below. During the warm months, this doesn’t mean great habitat for brookies. However, the “first pond” area has a depth of up to 40 feet, so focusing your efforts on the cold, deep water here can be a key to success. 

Camping

While no tent sites have been designated by the DEC (Sep. 2023), backcountry camping rules apply. There’s also the option of snagging a spot at the lean-to located on the site of an old lodge. You’ll have to hike a couple of miles from the Four Corners parking area, partially via an old access road. Several tent camping sites are also planned for along Gulf Brook Road, with a couple of sites on Boreas Pond. Keep up-to-date on the DEC page for the Boreas Ponds Tract for more information. 

Hunting

Hunters can utilize all the access points above, and the lands of the Boreas Ponds Tract are all open to hunting. There's an extensive history of deer hunting here, with several camps and clubs historically being scattered around the tract. If you're interested in a remote hunting trip, grabbing a map and scouting areas around Moose Mountain and Casey Brook could yield success. 

Gravel biking

While e-bikes aren’t allowed, you can bike the entire 6+ miles from Blue Ridge Road to the parking lot 500 feet from the dam. The trip can be shorter by utilizing one of the designated parking areas along Gulf Brook Road. As of 2023, this stretch was added to the Handlebarley, a gravel biking event taking place in the Adirondack Hub. 

Horseback riding

Nearly 17 miles of equestrian trails can be ridden in the Boreas Ponds Tract, with some miles of access off Boreas Road towards White Lily Pond and beyond the dam. There’s a map available that shows some of the possible routes you can take. If you’re including Boreas Ponds as one of the few stops on your horseback riding adventure, then the Frontier Town campground, equestrian and day-use area is a few minutes away and acts as the perfect basecamp for branching out to other equestrian trails. 

With so many activities in this area, making use of nearby campgrounds or lodging options can allow you to explore the Boreas Ponds Tract for multiple days if wilderness camping isn’t your cup of tea. There are also plenty of options for grabbing coffee, lunch, or a beer before or after a trip to Boreas. The closest options are the Newcomb Cafe for coffee, the Frontier Town Gateway to pick up something for the adventure, and post-hike brews and food at Paradox Brewery.

 

Shortly after waking up in the morning, I looked outside at a large pine tree near our house. It had a strange abnormality - a scar, if you will, and I thought to myself, "What caused that scar? A fungus, maybe?"

This isn't my usual thought process. Usually, I'd look out that window merely to determine how late I'd slept by the amount of sunlight - and neglect to see the trees for the forest.

I realized immediately that something was dramatically different. I had clearly been severely affected by the previous day's adventure - a hike into the Pharoah Lake Wilderness in the Schroon Lake Region with a licensed Adirondack wilderness guide.

I've done a bunch of hiking in the Adirondacks and beyond - we live in our very own paradise, and getting out onto the trails provides an opportunity for or total immersion in our beautiful landscape. Typically, however, it seems that the goal of hiking has really been to climb just as fast as possible to get to the top, stopping infrequently to drink water or catch our breath.

I was thrilled to have the opportunity to join a guided hike led by N.Y.S. Licensed Adirondack Guide and naturalist Elizabeth Lee. It was to be a full-day's adventure with four other women on a trail I'd wanted to explore for years. We were the first group to participate in Lee's series called "I Love Exploring", which was a particularly apropos title for a hike on Valentine's day.

The Pharoah Lake Wilderness Area contains 39 bodies of water covering 1,100 acres 62.8 miles of foot trails, and 14 lean-to's.

This year has the distinction of being quite devoid of snow, so instead of snowshoes in February, we all donned lightweight crampons, or microspikes for sure footing on the icy trail.

We set out from the trailhead on Route 74 to hike the Long Swing Trail to Oxshoe Pond, an out-and-back hike of about 9-10 miles total with an elevation gain of less than 500 feet. With temperatures just above freezing and partly sunny skies, I knew we were in for a nice, rolling hike.

We hadn't gone more than 100 feet when we stopped. A naturalist, Elizabeth pointed out the first of many details that we might (would) have otherwise missed. Now, I thought I had a good understanding of the food chain and ecosystem, but seeing the forest through Lee's eyes provided me with a whole new perspective. She pointed out the difference between the seeds in what turns out to be a wide variety of cones from the equally varied trees, and explained just who had been eating them. The faint scrape on a tree was actually where a deer had rubbed its antlers, likely a couple of years before. The white fur that was all that was left of a snowshoe rabbit (apparently numerous in this region). It was likely taken by a coyote, who are equally numerous, based on the number of tracks we could see in a variety of locations throughout the day.

We stopped at one point and all walked off trail to see a strange formation on a tree. Nature's art, Elizabeth called it. And it is...a large hole formed by a fungus, surrounded by
small fungi of another sort. (pic)

We analyzed and debated about the type of trees that could have shed certain fallen leaves (an ash leaf warranted the longest debate), solved mysteries about animal and bird scat (droppings), sighted old and current beaver lodges, discussed fungi and both their negative effects and complimentary contributions to trees. And a few times, we stopped just to listen to the sound of the forest.

We passed Blue Hill, Pyramid Lake, Alder Pond, Glidden Marsh, Crane Pond, through a forest with primarily a high canopy and little underbrush - a beautiful walk in the woods with a variety of water, swamps and small hills that in contrast to the fairly flat terrain looked bigger. After about three and a half hours, we reached the lean-to at Oxshoe Pond for a lunch break. After refueling on a combination of healthy food and chocolate, we walked out on the perfect skating ice of the pond - sorry that we hadn't thought to bring ice skates.

On the way back, I found myself looking at the minute details - I recognized small seeds from yellow birch trees on the trail, the scattered pattern of cone debris that indicated squirrel, versus bird activity, and yes; scat from a variety of small animals. In fact, I correctly identified "cute weasel scat" on the trail just a mile before we arrived back at the trailhead. (Elizabeth clarified for me that it's the small weasel that is cute, not the resulting scat).

The Pharoah Lake Wilderness hasn't seen the last of me - I'm going back to explore more of the lake and pond-riddled forest, and hope to visit Pharoah Mountain itself. When I go, I'll take with me a newfound appreciation for the small details and nuances of the flora and fauna, and of course, a supply of chocolate.

--Adirondack Guides have been helping us non-woodsmen to explore the Adirondack wilderness since the early 1800's. I'm now an outspoken advocate of taking advantage of their expertise, whether for hunting, fishing, ice climbing or wildflower hikes. Of course, all licensed guides are also certified in first aid, CPR and water safety, too.

nysoga.org

- Kim Rielly is the director of communications for the Regional Office of Sustainable Tourism 

Finding a place to sleep

It was already dark when I pulled into our campsite with my dog, Wren, ready to pitch up our tent and prepare for a night in the cooling, early fall woods. For some people, the camping season ends with the end of summer, but I love fall camping, and soon had the tent set up and had started the task of fixing dinner.

Relaxing in camp

Well, fixing dinner is a bit of a stretch. I had cheated and stopped for a sandwich (I’d call it a hoagie, but you can call it a sub if you want). Either way, it was tasty and I prepared Wren’s dinner which included a share of the sandwich as well. She gratefully accepted the donation of turkey.

Our bellies full, I cleaned up and readied for bed. We had already taken the requisite evening swim before we had found our campsite. I camp quite a bit, but I’m not one for sitting up late by the campfire, even though I enjoy that sort of thing when it happens. My early schedule dictates that I get to bed, but I tend to lie in the tent jotting field notes from the day and looking over my maps for the next day’s adventures.

That night was no different, and I struggled to keep my eyelids open as I planned our course for the next day. Despite my fatigue, my ears seemed to be alert for the nocturnal movements of wildlife and here and there I heard the scamper of mice – in search of food.

I also heard sounds from above as migrant birds – including a couple Veeries and a Swainson’s Thrush -chipped and pipped at times overhead. Then just as my head drooped again and I was going to give up and go to sleep, I heard the squeal of a Northern Saw-whet Owl off in the woods. With that I turned off my light and went to sleep.

Starting the Day with a Pair of Hikes

The following morning dawned gray and damp as the cool air condensed the mist on everything around us. I groggily stuck my head out of the tent and looked around at the growing light on the world. Wren wanted to get out of the tent so she could explore the night’s happenings with her nose.

Once up, I packed up my sleeping bag and other items in the tent, leaving the tent standing in the hope that it would dry a little while we ate breakfast and went for a hike. While we were eating I once again had my ears tuned in to see what I could hear from the surrounding forest, and I began the day with the likes of Hairy Woodpecker, Black-backed Woodpecker, Pileated Woodpecker, Purple Finches, Golden-crowned Kinglets, and both Red and White-breasted Nuthatches.

Our breakfast completed, we took a hike along the road which leads to the trailhead for Vanderwhacker Mountain, an excellent hike – topped off by a fire tower — for anyone in the mood. We also poked around some of the coniferous and boreal habitat along the railroad bed which bisects the road – a good area to look for species like Boreal Chickadee, although we didn't find one there on that day.

We eventually made our way back to camp and I finished packing the still-damp tent while Wren continued exploring with her nose. Our packing complete, we loaded up and headed down the road to the Roosevelt Truck Trail for our second hike of the day. The trail is easy and relatively flat, a wide grassy path (a bit overgrown at times at this point in the year, but easy to traverse) that was marked by lots of late summer and early fall wildflowers. And so while I kept my eyes and ears open for birds as I always do, I spent far more time botanizing than I did birding.

As a result, while the hike featured a second Black-backed Woodpecker and a few Ruffed Grouse, our route along it was strung together by a list of wildflowers more than anything else. It began with a gradual rise before dropping into what is largely a coniferous forest, gently rising and falling now and then, and I found myself stooped or kneeling in the soft ground or moss as I keyed out wildflowers and enjoyed the blooms of species like closed gentian, pearly everlasting, rough-stemmed goldenrod, Canada goldenrod, blue-stemmed goldenrod, late goldenrod, lance-leaved goldenrod (are you sensing a trend?), and New York aster.

We eventually wound our way along the easy path to a few campsites which mark the middle of the trail and I paused to have a snack while Wren nosed her way around the sites. The campsites allow folks to take a relatively easy backpacking trip, and we used it as our place to turn around and follow the trail back out toward the trailhead. On our way we chatted with a couple of birders from outside the area about both birds and botany, and they later texted me to tell me that they found both a Black-backed Woodpecker as well as a few Boreal Chickadees – a bird I missed on our hike, but one which is regularly found there.

I continued botanizing my way back to the trailhead, timing it well for a picnic lunch at the car before we headed down the road for more adventures.

Fall is a great time of year for hiking, camping, and other outdoor adventures. Visit our lodging and dining pages to help you plan your trip.

 

 

As soon as the snow starts to fall, eager beaver Adirondack residents and visitors start thinking about a very important question: how soon can we ski? For some, this means alpine skiing. For others, it's cross-country, the origin of all skiing, a winter activity that has been a source of fun and transportation for more than a thousand years. Cross-country skiing is a great way to get outside and explore Adirondack scenery, for a few hours or a full day, and is ideal for families of all ages. It's a fun, often gentle form of exercise. The Adirondack Hub, with its many trails and protected forests, is a beautiful, serene place to cross-country ski, whether you're a longtime skier or beginner. Below, find our tips on where to ski, get gear, and even where to enjoy a hot meal after your cool adventure!

Where to ski

Great Camp Santanoni

Formerly the private summer home of a wealthy Albany businessman and his family, the luxuriously rustic Great Camp Santanoni has a special place in both Adirondack history and the hearts of outdoor adventurers. The camp, located at the end of a five mile carriage road, is only accessible in winter by ski or snowshoe (in summer, visit on foot, bike, or by horse-drawn wagon). The trip to the camp, through rich woods, past the camp's former farm complex, and along Newcomb Lake, is a great workout and always pretty. The trail is mostly flat with a few very gentle uphill climbs, making it an enjoyable, stress-free ski over generally well-established tracks.

While visitors to Santanoni may ski to the camp on any day they choose, the state Department of Environmental Conservation, which owns the property, hosts three special winter weekend events each year and these are a must-visit. Skiers arriving at the camp on these days will find the main lodge, which is normally closed in winter, open for visitors, with tours offered by knowledgeable staff members from Adirondack Architectural Heritage. The camp's artist's studio will also be open as a warming hut and is a great spot to warm up, relax with friends and family, and enjoy hot cocoa, tea, or coffee before making the snowy trip back to the parking area.

Pharaoh Lake Wilderness

If you're looking for room to ski, the Pharaoh Lake Wilderness Area, which covers more than 46,000 acres, is the perfect paradise for you. This region is known for the breadth of its many lakes, ponds, and extensive hiking trails, adding up to more than 70 miles of adventure. In winter, all trails may be used for cross-country skiing, so options abound. Skiers may access great trails from the southern and northern areas of the wilderness. Both offer excellent skiing and scenery; northern areas offer more shorter trails and segments, while the southern access offers access to Pharaoh Lake itself.

Skiers starting from the southern access, via the Pharaoh Lake Road, may choose to ski 3.3 miles to the Pharaoh Lake outlet and then return, or continue an additional 6 miles over a loop around the lake. Other trails meet the loop and, by placing a vehicle at either end, skiers may make a one-way excursion to the northern access near Putnam Pond, for a total of 11.1 miles of skiing.

The northern section of Pharaoh Lake Wilderness is accessed via Route 74 between Schroon Lake and Ticonderoga and offers a few options for ski trips. Near Eagle Lake, the Short Swing Trail offers a short but scenic ski 3.4 miles from the trailhead to a lean-to near Tubhill Marsh, past Ragged Mountain. Farther east, the Puts Pond Road, which leads to Putnam Pond, offers two options, including a quick 2.8 mile round-trip excursion past the pond itself, starting from the Berryman Pond Trail. To extend the adventure, skiers may continue on the Grizzle Ocean Trail, past Clear, Rock and Little Rock ponds, and the tip of North Pond, all in just under 5 miles, ending near the starting point.

Adirondack Interpretive Center

Located in the heart of Newcomb, on a peninsula jutting into Rich Lake, the Adirondack Interpretive Center is an endlessly pretty, relaxing spot to ski (or snowshoe!). Three of the AIC's trails are open for skiing in the winter: Rich Lake, Sage, and Sucker Brook. These trails are easy, moderate, and challenging, respectively, offering visitors of all levels of experience something to try, as they cross scenic bridges, travel through dense cedars and enjoy views of Rich and Belden lakes. Watch for winter birds, including black-capped chickadees and white-breasted nuthatches. The peeping of chickadees is a sweet accompaniment as you ski. 

Fun bonus: for the truly adventurous, Sage Trail links to a connector to Great Camp Santanoni.

Where to gear up

Cloud-Splitter Outfitters

Want to take a snowy Adirondack vacation and try out some fun winter sports like cross-country skiing but don't know where to start? Stop by Cloud-Splitter Outfitters in Newcomb for all your gear needs, plus great advice and friendly service. At Cloud-Splitter, you can rent snowshoes or skis, learn about the area highlights, pick up a great new pair of gloves, and even try your new gear on the trails behind the shop. For a truly specialized experience, you can even hire a guide to lead you on a fun backcountry skiing adventure.

Where to grab a hot meal

So you've spent the day traversing snowy trails through pine forest, past streams, ponds, and mountains, and you're ready for a hot meal and the opportunity to share a laugh over that moment you almost but didn't quite fall down the hill or accidentally slide into a split (it's okay, we've all been there). Gather around the table at Sticks & Stones Wood Fired Pizza & Bistro in Schroon Lake for craft beer, sizzling pizza, and all-around good times. If you're in Newcomb don't forget to stop by the Lake Harris Lodge or the Newcomb Cafe & Campground. Relax after a busy, fun-filled day and celebrate your snowy vacation. You just might be ready to get back out on the skis the next day!

For more vacation inspiration, browse our great lodging options and outdoor activities. The Adirondack Hub awaits!