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An Early Fall Paddle on Rich Lake

A Muddy Put-in

After toting my canoe down the Sucker Brook Trail at the Adirondack Interpretive Center (AIC) in Newcomb, a mucky put-in wasn’t going to stop me and Wren, my dog, from getting on the water. And Wren was more than happy to slog through the mud, seemingly taking half of Sucker Brook into the boat with her, adding to the mess by lying down in the muck she transported.

We set off on the water and began to wind our way along Sucker Brook, and I soon realized we would need to vacate the boat to get beyond a shallow set of riffles blocking our way to Rich Lake. That did give me a chance to let Wren out on a gravel bar where she could rinse off and where I could clean some of the muck out of the boat before it became worse and got all over my gear – although much of it would have to wait until we finished our paddle. Wren was happy for the chance to wade in the water and I walked the boat through the shallow stretch so we could resume our paddle, negotiating our way around the rocks on Sucker Brook, and managing to briefly get lodged on one that lay hidden just below the dark surface of the water.

Wren lays quietly in her muddy spot in the boat as we paddled Sucker Brook.

Exploring Rich Lake

We began to paddle the perimeter of Rich Lake and I made a point to search for the canoe launch along the Rich Lake Trail to see if it was less muddy than the launch we had used. It looked much drier than the launch along the Sucker Brook Trail, so I made a plan to take-out there once we were finished.

My errand complete, we settled into our usual paddling routine – Wren watching the scenery or dozing, sometimes with her head on the yoke, and me on the lookout for birds on the early fall afternoon. I soon had a list of species that included Hairy Woodpecker, Great Blue Heron, Northern Flicker, Common Raven, Eastern Phoebe, and Red-eyed Vireo. Here and there small groups of Black-capped Chickadees called from the trees along the shoreline, and a Belted Kingfisher chattered as it flew from perch to perch. I also heard my first Common Loon of the trip – tallying three loons by the end of our paddle.

We found a Belted Kingfisher as we paddled - as is often the case on Adirondack paddles. Image courtesy of MasterImages.org.

A short distance further along, I heard the distinctive hoots of a Great Horned Owl – a female to be precise – coming from the north side of the lake. I eased the canoe toward the shoreline and listened to the muffled hoots disturb the late afternoon air for a few minutes before I moved on.

The Beginnings of fall

I could still hear an occasional hoot on the breeze as I left the shoreline, but for the most part the trip was quiet – the mark of the onset of fall and late in the day at that. And so we began to explore the nooks along the peninsula which occupies the center of the lake, noting the trees which were beginning to change from summer green to the golds, reds, and oranges of autumn. Initially these changes are subtle, but the landscape will soon explode with vibrant colors as fall cold fronts usher in the transformation. And the shadows of afternoon which soon became the shadows of evening showed off the soft changing colors as we went.

Wren and I admired the beauty of the shoreline as we went.

We continued our loop of Rich Lake, listening to the calls of Common Loons and eventually passing along the beach – a great place to swim for anyone in the area. As we did so, Wren immediately sat up and sniffed the air excitedly as if her love of beaches had somehow set off an alarm in her head. She looked expectantly as the shore, leaning out of the boat toward the beach as if doing so would somehow transport her to play in the sand rather than to remain in the confines of the canoe.

But we did not stop at the beach – but began to loop back to the take-out — I didn’t want to be caught on the water in the dark. As we looped back, we again passed the hooting Great Horned Owl and this time I could hear both the male and female owls dueting – announcing that this patch of forest was their territory. Once again I paused to listen as they punctuated the quiet air with their hoots.A pair of Great Horned Owls gave a territorial duet to all within earshot. Image courtesy of MasterImages.org.

As planned, I returned to the take-out along the Rich Lake Trail and I was happy that it was not nearly as mucky as where we had put-in. I unloaded my gear and tramped back to the car, returning for the boat which I first rinsed out before toting it up the trail. Anyone launching a boat from the AIC will need to be aware that any put-in requires a carry – so it might be helpful to bring along a lightweight boat or a muscular friend.

The hard work of the carry over, I lashed the boat back onto the car and we set off in search of a place to camp for the night.

Fall offers great opportunities for paddling and outdoor exploration. Plan your trip today and check out our lodging and dining pages to learn more.

Camp Santanoni Weekends: Step back in time

Editor's note: Every winter visitors are invited to participate in three unique Camp Santanoni Winter Weekends. As we are quickly coming up on the second one of the season, we thought it appropriate to rerun this blog that details with first-hand accounts what you can expect to encounter on one of these family-friendly weekends. (Originally published: February 2017)


It's a history museum, a unique winter trek, and a social occasion like no other. It's a Camp Santanoni Winter Weekend.

Camp Santanoni is a famous Great Camp/Farm Complex that has become a unique backcountry attraction. Now known as Camp Santanoni Preserve, it hosts three winter weekend events where people can ski in, enjoy the many activities, and celebrate an extraordinary Adirondack landmark.
I found a couple of friends who have made these weekends a regular part of their winter activities.

The Carriage Road

The aptly named Carriage Road is the only clear access to Camp Santanoni. It starts at the Gatehouse, and runs approximately five miles to the Main Camp. This trail is on gently rolling terrain, considered an easy ski for anyone with more than beginner cross-country skills. Even children participate, as attendee Tate makes clear:

Our family loves cross-country skiing. The first year we skied into Camp Santanoni as a family was when my son was five years old. We knew that he probably wouldn't make it the whole 10-mile trip and had a plan for that. The great thing about doing the Newcomb Lake Road into the great camp is the variety for a kid, and the interesting things along the way as you head to the camp. The kids anticipated the farm complex and then were on the lookout for bridges and trail signs. As we told them about different things along the way they were engaged, beyond just kicking, and gliding. This combined with a wide gentle trail and lots of other skiers allowed for a fun time.


A young skier sets out on the Carriage Road. Tate had a backup plan for little ones who might tire more easily than the adults:

Having a chance to duck into the warm artist studio for a lunch break was great for warming up and chatting with folks. That first year we pulled pulk sleds in with sleeping pads and bags. The kiddos enjoyed a fun ride out while the parents got a workout.


"Pulk sleds" are designed for hauling supplies, and tired children.

A new activity has been started for families and children "of every age." Staff from SUNY ESF Adirondack Interpretive Center had a "Winter Animal Tracking" workshop on a recent Winter Weekend Saturday afternoon. It's about teaching everyone, especially children, how to be a track detective and spot the clues that animals have left behind. This also started from the Gatehouse complex — so no one had to hike into the Great Camp to participate. It was hands-on activities during a short walk, and then a chance for the children to try out their new tracking skills on the return hike.


Participants learn what tracks in snow are made by which Adirondack animals.

Great Camp Santanoni

The Great Camp itself is a year-round place of interest. Sarah learned about them during a previous visit.

I actually found out about the winter weekends in the fall while I was on the horse-and-wagon ride event. The guide mentioned they opened the camp and served hot chocolate during three special weekends each year (MLK, President's Weekend, and then one weekend in March). After all of the recent snow we got, President's Weekend was the ideal time for us to attempt it.

During the summer you can take a wagon ride into camp, which is the only time people can take advantage of something powered; in this case, horses. No motorized vehicles are allowed anywhere in the Preserve. So, in the warmer months people hike and mountain bike into the complex, and in the winter months they ski or snowshoe.


A horse-drawn wagon can take guests in the summer.

The Carriage Road to Santanoni has long been a popular backcountry trail enhanced by a delightful destination: the extraordinary collection of original buildings of great architectural interest. Per Tate:

The ski trip into Camp Santanoni is a popular ski without the winter weekends. The event gives it more of a community feel. We first learned about it online, and I think it's a great outreach for the organizations involved. The first year we started out with 8 people, including three kids. The three boys were five and three. This year we may have up to seven kids, including a few under two years old, who will be bundled up in sleds.

Cross-country skiing provides a level field for adults and kids to have a good time together. My eight-year-old is now strong enough to ski the whole trip and can keep up with a beginner adult skier. I think he enjoys the opportunity to be on par with them. This trip is a great family activity and it also gives me a chance to be out with other skiers and users of the Forest Preserve. Skiing is my favorite winter activity and I love being able to introduce people to it ,or help someone expand beyond skiing a groomed trail.


The art studio with a forest of skis in front of it.

Sarah returned this year because she and her companions had such a good time, here are some things she noted:

TONS of people were there. The parking lot was full by 10am when we got there, but it didn't feel crowded on the trail.

It's a pretty flat trail with gradual hills which make for a somewhat arduous ski. If you're just starting out on XC skis, it might not be the ideal trip for you to attempt alone. With the temps being warmer, you would have to be pretty familiar with wax, and what kind to use, and how to apply it so you didn't stick.

Bonus, it's dog-friendly, which is always good.


Dogs are welcome everywhere on these weekends.
Tate says:

The great camp complex provides a great introduction to the public about the Forest Preserve. As people disconnect from the electronic world and enter the forest. Santanoni and its buildings allow people to transition to a simpler time in the largest wilderness in the Adirondacks. I think it provides a part of the recreational opportunity spectrum, which allows everyone a chance to connect with nature.

The Camp was a work in progress from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a vision of Robert C. and Anna Pruyn. They wanted a place to entertain guests and find refuge from city life, and as they became enchanted with the great outdoors around them, they continued to add to the complex, developing it into guest houses, a lakeside studio, and even a working farm to supply the camp with milk, meat, and eggs from livestock on the premises.

Today, the buildings are empty, and some of the more than forty-five separate structures have been lost to fire. However, this also supports the vision of the architects who, knowing they were building wooden structures in an inaccessible place, created multiple "rooms" which had distance between them.

Arrive to hot chocolate

Once you arrive at the art studio, there are hot beverages and fun activities.

The Artist's Studio, near the Main Lodge on the shores of Newcomb Lake, is open as a warming hut, with a woodstove.

Many of the buildings will be open only during the three Winter Weekend events, such the Gate Lodge and the Main Lodge buildings. There will be interpretive tours with Adirondack Architectural Heritage staff. Bring your own cup!

Tate appreciates these events as a chance to get together with old friends and make new ones.

Skiing is a lifelong activity and affords endless opportunities to get out and explore the forests. I look forward to my kids looking back on our family ski trips fondly. Just as I look back at my trips growing up.

Sarah was thrilled to expand her Camp Santanoni interest into other seasons:

I'd have to say my favorite part was finally finding a spot down by the boathouse that was "uninhabited" - meaning no one else had found it yet, so we actually had a place to sit and eat and relax in the sun. We just bathed in the sun for a bit in the quiet and watched people ski across the lake. Then some more people started coming down and we met a few nice folks, two of which had traveled up that morning from the city. Everyone was excited for the beautiful day. I was in a tank top by the time we got back to the car. Amazing how 50 degrees in February feels like a heat wave, but 50 degrees in October feels like a cold snap!

Here in the Adirondacks, we still have the ability to surprise you.

Finish the day with delightful dining and a great night's sleep. Find out more about the wagon ride with our blog post, Exploring a Great Camp, Santanoni Preserve.

 

Spectacular Pharoah Mountain in Autumn

View of Schroon Lake from Pharoah Pharoah Mountain--the name itself has enough allure to make a hiker curious.  This week the trail was as satisfying as expected.  From the beginning of the day we knew we were in for a spectacular outing.   We left the car that has lower clearance in the Crane Pond Road parking area and drove my vehicle somewhat further into the Goose Pond trailhead. Crane Pond Road is passable by higher clearance vehicles all the way into the Pond but I elected to spare my CR-V the rocks, ruts and puddles-of-unknown-depth. The hike to Crane Pond along Alder Pond is lovely anyway so we walked it.

Crane Pond is a great destination unto itself.  It was quiet and we checked out the shoreline, finding lots of fresh water mussel shells, probably left by otters. We crossed the bridge at the west end of the pond and headed into the woods. The trail rolls gently along through hemlocks and then mixed hardwoods. There was loads of sunlight dancing around and even a very gentle breeze.  This year there is hard mast everywhere I go and the Pharaoh trail was no exception--beech nuts crunched like gravel under foot in one section. Beechnut hulls

It's a short distance to Glidden Marsh where the sun on the open water lit up the forest.  We got a nice view of our destination and kept up a quick pace with the help of the temperature, which was still in the 50's. Following the two mile trail we found the going mostly easy. The grade gets steep in a few places but not for long stretches. As you rise there are still pretty fall asters and goldenrod along the trail. The ferns are browning and curling but add texture. The incredible red color of the hobblebush leaves is stunning, especially with green highlights of veins that haven't surrendered all their chlorophyll yet this season. Glidden Marsh

Most of the canopy had already started turning color so we wound our way along from one pretty scene to the next.  Both of us have a fondness for cedar waxwings and as we got closer to the top we heard them peeping all around us.  The mountain ashes were covered with orange berries and we saw all sorts of flitting small birds flush as we approached.

One of the beauties of Pharoah is that there are views in every direction. We stopped on one outcrop to look back at Schroon Lake and Goose Pond. From there we continued to the long sloping ledge that looks 270 degrees,  panning the Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest, Hoffman Notch Wilderness Area, Dix Mountain Wilderness Area, Hammond Pond Wild Forest and the stunning Champlain Valley to Lake Champlain and Lake George.  On a clear sunny day this view rivals the High Peak vistas.  It's expansive and wild but not so daunting as some views from higher elevationd.

We took a few more minutes to go over to a slightly different view from the sloping rocks at the top of the trail that comes from the south.  You can see more of Pharoah Lake and lie on the warm rocks in the sun.

This is a very satisfying hike--perfect for nice views of fall color. View west from Pharoah Mountain

Trail running with the pup!

The softer side of running

I like to trail run. Why? It’s not like running on a hard, paved road. Generally, trails are softer terrain comprised of packed dirt or grass or other natural surface. It’s a great way to get some exercise while completely immersing myself in the gorgeous landscape that I call home; listening to the birds and witnessing the seasonal changes to the Adirondack flora.

Or, in reality, I like trail running because sometimes while avoiding roots, negotiating turns and dips and rocks, I forget that I’m actually running.

So, we all know that there are thousands of miles of marked trails in the Adirondacks - from the dramatic High Peaks to the more family-focused Champlain Area Trails along Lake Champlain. For mountain biking, there are some great go-to areas with lots of varied terrain - notably the Hardy Trail network in Wilmington. That’s no secret.

But there is one multi-use Adirondack trail network that is ideal for trail running, and I completely forgot to tell you about it.

North Hudson - the New Frontier

The North Hudson Trail Center is a network of multi-use trails, welcoming snowshoers and cross-country skiers in the winter, and hikers, mountain bikers, and horseback riders in the warm months.

I don’t have a horse, so I brought my dog with me to revisit the area, but this time for trail running.

This wasn’t the first time I’d used these trails. My husband and I rode our mountain bikes here years ago, and I remembered that the trails were rolling, and mossy.

We really enjoyed the trails for biking, and we apparently took a wrong turn THAT time too.

This time, Katie the wonder dog and I arrived at the trailhead, which is near the old entrance to what used to be the Frontier Town theme park off Interstate 87 at exit 29. There is an informational kiosk that shows a map of the series of loops on both sides of Route 9N, including a small section called the “Beginner Triangle” located 180 degrees behind those looking at the sign. The 7.7 miles of trails are marked with Red, Yellow and Blue markers and intersect frequently. I took a printed map provided in a receptacle on the kiosk, but since I had been there before, Katie and I headed off without any regard for the trail map at our disposal.

Katie was on her leash, as any responsible dog would be, and we jogged slowly along the grassy, tree-lined path. The first intersection we arrived at had a sign indicating that the red trail was to the left, but it appeared that going straight ahead was the more well-worn path. We soon arrived at a part of the former theme park, the same place I’d inadvertently arrived at years before. It was the old west main street that I’d visited as a kid - now overgrown with weeds and trees. We turned back toward the red trail intersection to try out that loop.

We ran along the mossy trails for a while, but just for a few miles total, including a jaunt into the “beginner’s triangle” with its 1.2 km of flat, wide trails. It was truly a peaceful, beautiful run. Most of the trails are beginner to intermediate level - and wide enough to ride two abreast on mountain bikes, and certainly wide enough for a horse or snowmobile. And it was a primarily SOFT and mossy, comfortable running surface.

In fact, it was so nice, I hardly noticed I was running at all.

PLAN A VISIT

The Schroon Lake Region is a mecca for outdoor recreation, with plenty of hiking trails interspersed with fishing and paddling waters. The North Hudson Trail Center is located north of the Pharaoh Mountain and Hoffman Notch Wilderness Areas and adjacent to the Hammond Pond Wilderness on Route 9N.

Be sure to check out the lodging options as a base camp to check out all of these wilderness areas while you’re here!

RESOURCES

Here is an overview MAP OF THE TRAIL AREA.

Here is a MAP OF THE TRAILS.

 

 


 

Dog days in the ADKs:

Puppy’s first peak

Camping with canines

Year in the life of an ADK dog

Shoka’s big day out

This is dog country

Three mountains, four paws

Happy camper, happy hound

Teed up in Newcomb

What if I told you that there is a high-caliber, challenging, meticulously-maintained 9-hole golf oasis with stunning views of the High Peaks hiding directly in the geographic middle of the Adirondacks wilderness?

It’s not intentionally hiding, but folks who visit Newcomb, New York might not immediately associate their favorite destination for hiking, biking, and paddling with the game of golf.

As it turns out, it’s not all that hard to find. Driving through the jaw-dropping landscape leading through Newcomb from any direction, you’ll involuntarily hit the brakes when you see the High Peaks Overlook. It’s a stunning, open view of the High Peaks of the Adirondacks, complete with picnic table, gazebo, and now, one of those frames with the name of the town for your Instagramming convenience.

No one will blame you for spending some time at the Overlook, but when you can pry your eyes away from the view, pan to the right. There you’ll see a sign for the High Peaks Golf Course.

177 years in the making

Follow the sign’s arrow a short drive down Santanoni Drive to the parking lot and clubhouse.

The High Peaks Golf Course opened in 2005, and is owned and operated by the Town of Newcomb, which was established in 1828. (And no, the course construction didn’t really take 177 years).

Since about 2005 then, I have heard from local golfing friends and acquaintances that the golf course in Newcomb is a must-play course. I’m not sure why it took until this year to visit in person.

A stop in to the welcoming clubhouse and pro shop sets the stage. If you’re lucky, Linda, one of the friendliest people in the world, will greet you with a big smile, as will anyone else who happens to be sitting at what looks like an old-fashioned drug store counter. She’ll set you up with information, a key to a cart, and your tee time — which is probably right away, because, somehow, the course is still kind of a secret.

There are snacks and drinks (beer too), and rumored delicious microwavable hamburgers served up here, and a small pro shop in case you want a souvenir or need a new golf glove.

Keep your eye on the ball

And then I took a look beyond the club house and toured the course itself via golf cart. There are four tees at each hole for all ages and styles of players. The healthy fairways and greens divulge the fact that the course is fully irrigated, and the rolling terrain showcases the fact that the greens are sloped and elevated.

The layout is challenging, with a lot of hills (take a cart), sneaky sand traps, and because of its location, a number of environmentally sensitive marsh areas that you’re not allowed to enter, but your ball just might.

Speaking of your ball, it’s certainly tough to keep your eye on it for a successful swing courtesy of those darn breathtaking views!

Something to disagree on

When I returned to the club house, I decided to conduct a quick survey, and asked the course manager, two members just arriving for their day’s round, Linda, and two women sitting at the counter the same question: what is the course’s signature hole?

One person responded that it’s the really long, par 5 hole #6. Another declared that it is hole #5 because of the view from the tee. Yet another chose the short 3 par hole 3, and well, let’s just say that all 9 holes have their own fan clubs. So if it’s up for grabs, I put my vote down for hole 5, too.

Something to agree on

For the quality of the play and the outstanding setting of this golf course, you’d think that they’d only let the pros play. But it’s just the opposite. This is no high falootin’ country club. Rather, you’ll feel welcome from the moment of arrival and as comfortable wearing Carhartts as fancy golf duds.

And that welcoming attitude applies to the rest of the community, too. I urge everyone to stop in and visit Dave and Ruth at Cloudsplitter Outfitters and pick up some food and other supplies while you plan a bike, hike, or paddle adventure. And don’t miss the Adirondack Interpretive Center, with accessible trails and knowledgable staff to answer your every question about the Adirondacks’ flora and fauna. A visit to the historic Great Camp Santanoni is a must, too, and it's accessible via bike, hike or wagon ride.

There’s a wonderful town beach on Lake Harris, the popular fire tower on Goodnow Mountain, and an endless number of paddling trips available, from Lake Harris to the Essex Chain Lakes, to the Hudson River.

After all, where better to tee up for all of the best outdoor adventures than the geographic middle of the Adirondacks?

 

Haven't you herd?

A bison herd is a peculiar site in the eastern United States, but in the Adirondacks anything is possible.

Take Exit 29 off of Interstate 87 and drive west, toward Newcomb, for about 4 miles. Just after the Branch River leaves your side, the evergreen-laden forest opens to reveal about 40 bison in a large pasture — that's the Adirondack Buffalo Company's herd.

Two hundred years ago, it wasn't strange to see the animals scattered across the American landscape. The massive ungulates dominated the terrain from Central New York through the Midwest, and north into Alaska.

Early European settlers brought the species, which once boasted about 60 million individuals, to the brink of extinction. Old sepia-toned photographs of house-sized piles of bison skulls grant perspective to the magnitude of the slaughter, which decreased the animal's numbers to about 300 by 1900.


Bison have since made a slow and steady comeback, and now their population is a few hundred thousand. That's not bad for an animal the International Union for Conservation of Nature called a "conservation dependent species." Their range isn't close to what it used to be, but the threat of extinction has mostly dissipated.

The historical range of bison never extended into these mountains, but the beasts — the deceptively placid and gentle-looking creatures — look right at home against the Adirondack backdrop.

An open plain is rare in these parts, and this one is bordered by two fences. The double fence serves two purposes: The tall inside fence keeps the bison from escaping, and the shorter outside fence keeps people from getting too close to the bison. The height of the inside fence isn't an accident. The 1,400-pound animals can run 40 miles an hour and jump about 6 feet high.

"People don't have a concept of how strong and fast they are," Dorreen Ossenkop said. "They think they're these big, ponderous animals. Oh, no. They'll outsprint a quarter horse."


Dorreen and her husband, Steve, opened the Adirondack Buffalo Company in 1990. Standing in the gift shop, which overlooks the bison arena, Dorreen said she's seen the animals in action. One day, a particularly determined female decided the grass looked better on the other side of the fence, so she leaped over it. Steve set about making the fence higher, and the next day Dorreen watched as the same bison slowly surveyed the perimeter.

"She walked all the way around until she found one spot where there was no extra board, and she did it again," Dorreen said.

Steve was born and raised on a dairy farm, but he was always fascinated by bison. About 25 years ago, the couple decided to go for it. They wanted something different, and that's what they got — the creatures are intelligent, curious, and surprisingly agile.

"Most animals will pivot on their front feet or back feet; buffalo will pivot on any foot," Dorreen said. "I have on two occasions seen them get startled by something, and they jump up in the air, and when they hit the ground running they're facing in the opposite direction. They're like a cat. They do it so fast you can barely see the movement."

Once bison put some distance between themselves and whatever startled them, they turn to face it. That's when they determine whether to ignore, flee, or attack. One of the times Dorreen saw this play out, the bison picked the first option and went about their business. The offending animals were Canada geese that broke into a hissing, honking fit when the inquisitive bison wandered too close.

A herd of bison is not a random assortment of animals. There's a social hierarchy that determines which individual gets the best resources available. If the dominant female likes the look of a spot another bison is lounging in, it will yield to her when she approaches. The dominant female also gets first dibs on food, and when she's finished she'll move on to the next best batch, leaving whatever's left of the first for whoever's next in the pecking order.

In nature, those lower on the ladder could go hungry. The Ossenkops can't let that happen — they have a business to run — so everyone eats.

When the animals are old enough they're sent away to be processed, and the meat is sold at the shop, along with things like jams, pies, cookies, sauces, quilts, furniture, books, and dairy products. It's a smorgasbord of mostly Adirondack-themed items and just like the bison, most of it is produced locally.


In the summer, there's even a display straight out of a farmers' market that's loaded with fresh produce.

Dorreen explained that the Adirondack Buffalo Company is more than a bison farm — it's a place where local artisans can sell their wares and where visitors can observe the curious creatures from a safe distance.

The Adirondack Buffalo Company is conveniently located on the way to other regional delights. Stop by the next time you decide to hike, paddle, or attend an event in the Schroon Lake Region.

 

Something Old, Something New, and Something Blue: The Rankin Pond Region

A change of plans

This hike was a fusion of revisiting locations for me, but for Jim it was completely new territory. We had planned on a different hike in the area, but if bad weather were to persist I had this location as a back-up. So rather than stomp around the Hudson River Gorge Primitive Area in foul weather we ended up in the Vanderwhacker Mountain Wild Forest. It had been several years, actually more than a decade, since I'd been to Rankin Pond and on a couple of the nearby peaks. It was certainly the right time to visit an old friend.

Crusher Hill is “something old”

Crusher Hill is one of the small peaks I visited some time ago, making it “something old” for the day (and you thought I was talking about Jim). We wouldn’t actually set foot on a trail until the end of the day. With Crusher Hill directly over us, we opted for the direct route of attack. We walked about 50 feet to the right of the trail register, jumped the berm and hit the woods. We love this region for its open forest, and in its current state of leafless November it was like a walk in the park. The dull sky above us didn’t cast a shadow and the threat of rain was hanging over our heads, but we would roll with the punches as we so often have in the past.

It wasn’t long before we crested what was left of the small hill and stood atop the open rise, looking through the leafless trees at the surrounding mountains of the region. We didn’t hang around because we still felt like we were racing the weather. The dark clouds billowed above us and a cool northerly breeze hit us on the cheeks with that crisp smell of fall in the air. We could see Balfour Lake below us — we would seek that out next.

Balfour Lake is “something blue”

We dropped off of Crusher Hill on a soft bed of leaves resembling a footing of sheer ice, but even with every effort to remain in the vertical position we failed. It wasn’t long before we gained the drainage of Rankin Pond. Before us stood a two-tiered beaver marsh — flooded too deep and too wide to hop, we would have to head downstream to find a good place to access the other side. The thick lining of spruce and fir made passage a bit slower, but in a short amount of time we managed to find a few rocks to hop, which provided a dry outcome to our crossing.

We kept following the drainage as the forest opened up around us and a sharp edge to the tree growth gave us the added pleasure of adventure. We descended ever so slightly and came upon an old forest road, maybe a carriage road to an old camp. While easy to follow, toppled trees blocked it from easy passage. Mud and running water infiltrated our boots. Balfour Lake below us called our name, but we waited to reach the small finger bay before we would take to its shore. The lake is a massive body of placid water, gleaming before us, and the camps on the opposite side lined the shore. A few pictures later we returned to the old carriage road. Now following an inlet to Balfour Lake, we climbed steadily to a high saddle between Balfour Mountain and Rankin Pond Mountain.

Balfour Mountain is “something new”

New to me, and new to Jim, we were excited to see what was in store for us on Balfour Mountain. The carriage road all but disappeared in the col near a small seep, so we were now on our own. The destination of the carriage road was now apparent as we stood near an old stone foundation.

From here it would be a moderate hike through more open forest. As we penetrated the countryside I would reflect on my past outings in the area and wonder why I never made my way to Balfour Mountain. Its summit lies so close to the main highway and quite close to other peaks I had visited.

The summit of Balfour consists of two nearly identical bumps, but looking at the map it was unclear which one was higher and by how much. I guess we would just have to visit them both. The first one was clogged with entwined mountain ash, which made it tough to move through, but with pushing and pulling we stood atop this wooded island. It appeared the other small knob was just slightly less than a quarter-mile away in an “as-the-crow-flies” direction. We would be there very quickly. With minimal descent off of the other side, we could see it from the shallow saddle. This top was totally different than the last. It was spruce covered, not densely so, but still a totally different tree growth. We dropped a bit to the lake side and managed to grab a slight view toward Green Mountain and Hewitt Pond Mountain. Again, the summit was wooded, but at least we found a decent viewing platform.

We moved off and over the first summit back to the col between Balfour and Rankin Pond Mountain. The descent was a bit more to the west than our climb just a few minutes prior, and to our pleasure it was much more open. In fact, it was a wonderful stand of hardwoods.

Rankin Pond Mountain is another “something old”

We were down quite fast off Balfour Mountain and along the way we came across another old foundation-type structure. It might have even been an old stone pile from a property corner. Just beyond this was the old carriage road we followed earlier, this time in fine condition and ever-so-obvious. We would not follow it this time as it passed over the valley toward the Boreas River (destination unknown, but we sure were curious). After crossing a narrow wetland by hopping from tufts of sedge to decaying logs, we made it across no wetter than we already were.

The climb up Rankin was hardly noticeable, aside from one steep section that lasted all of a few hundred feet. I remember finding views off of this 2,265-foot summit, or at least near the summit, and I was hoping to find more of the same. Then it happened — there was some sort of bright object in the sky, almost blinding and nearly disorienting, but we were not so sure what it was and then it was gone. Come to find out later it was the sun, but it had been so long since we saw it we were confused.

Rankin Pond is another “something blue”

Our last destination of the day was Rankin Pond, where we picked up the trail back to the car, but first we would have to get off the top of this guy. We started to descend toward Little Rankin Pond, but the day was getting shorter and the darkest of the day's clouds started to spit on us a bit. To avoid a drenching, we ended up veering back toward the Rankin Pond outlet to shorten the course. The outlet in this area was actually right near where we crossed it earlier in the day, and thankfully downstream from the beaver flood zone.

We walked the outlet up to the beaver village to get a closer look. The rain had subsided again so we felt more freedom to explore. The flooded area was quite large with additional tiers of small ponds with green, moss-covered, downed logs and standing snags. It was picturesque. Soon we came to a long finger of Rankin Pond, which was still over a quarter-mile away from the end of the trail. We walked the shore as best we could but the growth was thick. Until we finally found a fisherman’s path, we had a heck of a time of it.

We took some photographs of the pond but as gloomy as it was, they weren’t all that great. Finally, and I say finally with a slight sigh of relief, we were on the trail. This path looked to be used quite often, but not maintained equally as much. Several pieces of downed branches and full trees covered parts of the trail. They had been there so long paths were developed around them. Too big for us to move, we had to use the paths as well. The trail is only 0.4 miles or so from pond to road, so as you can imagine we made quick work of it and were back at the car in no time.

I was chilled from the damp weather and the sweat on my back, and a slight shiver in my spine made me jittery for a hot cup of coffee. We would head into town and grab that as soon as humanly possible — with a couple squares of a Hershey’s chocolate bar melted in, it would be heaven.

 

Strumming Sinkers: How Guitars Go from Murk to Music

Eric Bright is a Schroon Lake-based luthier with an eye for detail and a set of snorkeling gear. The wood he uses comes from the muck on the bottom of the lake; his guitars produce a timeless sound that's as soft as the ripples on the water's surface. It all takes attention, dedication, and time. Lots and lots of time.

Eric's story begins 150 years ago, when logging was big business in the Adirondacks. As timber companies competed for the forest, lakes and rivers became congested superhighways for their cargo. Massive tree trunks, stripped of their branches and foliage, were floated downriver to the mills in Glens Falls, where they were processed. Each log had several log marks pound into its end to identify the company it belonged to.

Back in the old days, log marks were pounded into each log so the company it belonged to could be identified downriver.

The first log drive to happen in the Adirondacks was on the Schroon River in the early 1800s. They became more commonplace as time went on, and thanks to grainy black-and-white photographs, we can take a glimpse into that chaotic scene — thousands of logs jostling for space, haphazardly arranged like wooden toothpicks scattered across the water’s surface. Most logs made the long journey to the mill, but some became submerged, sinking to the bottom of the lake where they found a new home in the soft sediment there.

Now it’s 2018, and a lot has changed. The northern end of Schroon Lake has been developed into a thriving little community filled with shops and restaurants. There’s an expansive, sandy beach that’s packed with sun-loving people all summer long, and the water is blue and shimmering. Gone are the days of logging camps and log jams, but deep below the lake’s surface the remnants of a bygone era remain — until Eric finds them.

The walls of Eric’s showroom, BassRock Guitars, are lined with about 10 guitars at any given time. Ask him and he’ll tell you their names — there’s Gloria, Rose, and Lila Grace. Each is as beautiful as its neighbor, all are carefully designed and handcrafted by Eric, in his workshop across the lake. Before they get there, though, the wood used to make them has to be pulled from the depths of Schroon Lake.

Every guitar Eric creates is distinct.

Going deep

The logs Eric uses are called sinkers, and he generally pulls them from water that’s about 10 feet deep. Once he’s found one that’s the right size, just over 13 feet and at least 14 inches in diameter, he holds his breath and dives to it with a heavy rope. Working quickly, he works his arms into the sediment and loops the rope around the trunk. That creates a cloud of debris, so if he goes up for air before the rope is in place he has to wait for the cloud to settle before heading back down.

Once the rope is secure, Eric returns to the boat and, with the help of his daughter, pulls the line taut. Then they wait.

“There’s a lot of suction down there, so Kate drives the boat until the rope is taut and we wait a few minutes," Eric said. "When the butt end of that log pops up, we tow it back to shore."

The waterlogged logs are left to air dry, then Eric’s friend cuts them down to size. Sometimes the wood is maple, other times it’s red spruce, a species that was made the gold standard for guitars by Martin Guitars.

The bodies on BassRock guitars are hardwood, the faces are softwood.

Eric says the variety is good because hardwoods like maple make the best guitar bodies, and softwoods like spruce make the best guitar faces. The different types of wood add to the aesthetics of the finished instrument, but the hardwood-softwood combo gives the guitar its voice.

“A good guitar is a machine; there are lows, mids, and highs,” Eric said. "The sides and back have to be a hardwood because there's 180 pounds of pressure on the bridge, but the top is the most important part of the sound."

Eric taps around the softwood face of a guitar and listens for the clear notes it emits. To hear him describe it, a guitar is like a living thing. Each individual instrument has its own nuanced tones, which eventually adapt to its owner’s playing style. The vibration of the strings interacts with the grain of the wood, and the instrument evolves and grows as it’s strummed.

“Some people say if you play a certain style the guitar will learn to resonate that way," Eric said. "It sounds a little extreme but it makes a little sense, too. You are teaching the guitar how you play." 

A workshop with a view

Eric crosses Schroon Lake to get to his workshop. He never complains about the commute.It’s a short walk to the shore of Schroon Lake from the BassRock Guitars showroom. From the long wooden dock it’s a 5-minute trip by motorboat to Eric’s workshop, a roomy basement space overlooking the water that’s packed full of tools and wood. There are forms for guitar faces and bodies, labeled stacks of wood, and collections of wood burls. The burls are natural, knobby formations that grow on trees. Often used to make tables and bowls, Eric likes how their irregular features add a distinct touch to his guitars. He often uses them for the bridge, the part of the guitar that holds the strings to the face.

Everything comes together, on piece at a time.

He looks for irregular grain patterns, too, and sees them as an opportunity to give the instrument it’s own personality. Sometimes he fills small holes with pieces of burl, other times he brings in mother of pearl. It all depends how the wood speaks to him.

"A new guitar, you might have grain from the spruce going in one direction and grain from the hex bracing going the other way, so they could be fighting each other," Eric said. "But what happens over time, as the guitar opens up, is all of the grain learns to resonate together. After awhile it resonates as one piece of wood."

 

If you hit the town after a day of hiking or paddling in the Schroon Lake Region, you might see Eric playing with his band, The Log Jammers. To see his guitars, make an appointment with BassRock Guitars.

Welcome to Hiking

 

By: Kathryn Woebber Behuniak

I’ve been hiking for so many years that I’ve forgotten the excitement and freshness of being new to the mountains. One good way to get that feeling back is to take a new hiker into the woods. Hubby and I had family visiting from Buffalo, where there aren’t too many mountains. Our 14-year-old nephew Jonathan had never climbed anywhere in the Adirondacks and our job as a responsible aunt and uncle was to introduce him to the mountains we love so much.

Goodnow Mountain’s Fire Tower

The day was overcast at the start, with leftover sprinkles from a soaking shower the night before. That meant the hike started out wet, but Jonathan didn’t seem to mind. He was wearing borrowed hiking boots and I was concerned the size might not be exact and he’d get a blister. Any small thing could turn someone off to hiking right from the start and I didn’t want that to be the case. But he wasn’t bothered by the borrowed boots either. In fact, he was taking to this whole hiking thing like the proverbial fish to water and I think we were actually holding him back. When he offered to carry my fully laden backpack, I turned it over to him in an instant, quickly learning that having a Sherpa is very nice, indeed! I made great time up the mountain without the weight of lunch, snacks, water and my camera. Better yet, the weight of the pack didn’t slow Jonathan down at all, and it gave him the full hiking experience!

Our group of three made it to the summit in about an hour. I’d hiked Goodnow many times before and this was a pretty quick trip by my standards. It must have been because I wasn’t carrying a pack, but it also could have been because I didn’t want a new hiker to show me up so I just had to keep up with the teenager! For a brief time, we had the top to ourselves. We knew a rather large group was on the way (because we passed them on the trail), so we took advantage of the solitude and climbed to the top of the fire tower before it got crowded.

In the 1900s, mountains with fire towers were the homes of fire wardens who usually lived in a cabin near or on the summit. The wardens would keep an eye out over the surrounding area for fires, oftentimes as a result of lightning strikes, and they would communicate with wardens in other nearby fire towers. The practice was abandoned later in the 20th century, but many of the steel fire towers remain. In this age of lists and challenges, such as becoming a 46er or a Saranac 6er, there is also the Fire Tower Challenge. Goodnow Mountain is one of the peaks on that list. Unlike some other tower topped summits, Goodnow’s tower and cab is fully accessible. Actually, there isn’t much of a view from Goodnow’s summit unless you climb at least the first two sections of ladders. On a windy day, reaching the tower’s cab can require calming some nerves if you have a real fear of heights. Fortunately, this was not a windy day.

Conquering Fear

Jonathan had told us before the hike that he was afraid of heights. We assured him that standing on the mostly enclosed, treed summit would not cause any anxiety. We also told him about the fire tower. He was pretty sure he wouldn’t want to climb it. Hubby, who shares his nephew’s fear of heights, coaxed Jonathan about halfway up – his usual stopping point. I was already in the cab. On his own, Jonathan decided to make a run at the tower. He did it – albeit nervously – and was able to enjoy the 360-degree views of the High Peaks, Goodnow Flow, Rich Lake, and the Town of Newcomb. Then he scurried back down. One of the great things about getting kids out on the trails is building confidence without pushing, and letting them realize they are capable of far more than they think. I think Jonathan was pretty proud of himself for conquering his fear and we were happy to help him along.

Remembering Earlier Hikes

As we made our way back down the mountain, I was reminded of the days when our kids were young and we were new at exploring different peaks. We started with very small walks in the woods and worked ourselves up from there. Severance Hill, just north of the Village of Schroon Lake, was one of the first hikes our family tried. When you’re introducing someone to hiking, you want it to be fun and interesting. The trail for Severance starts by walking through a large culvert pipe under the Adirondack Northway. What could be more cool than listening to cars roaring by overhead? And after just over a mile, you’re at the summit with magnificent views of Schroon Lake. Fun and interesting. The bonus for our kids, and the incentive to hike back down under their own steam, was the promise of an ice cream somewhere. In Newcomb, after Goodnow, that ice cream was at Scoops on the corner of Route 28N and Bissell’s Loop, at the Campsite Road.

Hiking with Jonathan, and seeing his willingness to explore, reminded me of why I hike. I remembered those nights before a big hike when I could barely sleep because I was so excited to get on the trail. It sounds crazy since we were usually getting up around 4 a.m. and the day ahead promised to be very long, but it was like the night before Christmas to me. I was going to be spending time with my family, doing something I loved. Sharing the woods with people you care about is a lot of fun. Sharing the hiking experience with someone who’s never done it before, and having him enjoy it just as much, feels awesome. And I’m pretty sure Jonathan enjoyed it, because afterwards he proclaimed, “I think I want to hike Mt. Marcy.” And so it begins for another new hiker.

Ready to hike your first peak? Whether you want to do a quick family-friendly loop or a longer, full-day adventure, the Schroon Lake Region has plenty of hikes to choose from!

Exploring a great camp - Santanoni Preserve

Historic crown jewel

History buffs have long known the Newcomb area to be a destination rich in heritage. One of the crown jewels of the region is Great Camp Santanoni and the Santanoni Preserve. In 1892 Robert and Anna Pruyn of Albany, New York, began construction of their dream retreat deep in the Adirondack wilderness. Pruyn was president of Embossing Company, a major toy manufacturer of the late-nineteenth and early-twentieth centuries. Pruyn also served as a member of the NYS Board of Regents and for 46 years was also President of National Commercial Bank of Albany, now known as Key Bank. He and his staff became very successful investors in that time period. He was a member of the extended family of the famed Finch Pruyn paper company, holders of vast tracts of land around Hamilton and Essex Counties, a large portion of which have been purchased by New York State and added to the Adirondack Park landholdings. The Robert Pruyn family enjoyed the Santanoni Preserve for well over 50 years.

Prior to its purchase by a land conservancy group and ultimately New York State in 1972, the Pruyn’s Santanoni Preserve included nearly fifty structures on almost 13,000 acres of land. After leaving the Gate-house just off route 28N in Newcomb, the 5-mile dirt road leading to the main camp traverses some of the most beautiful forestland in the Adirondacks and crosses several streams, ultimately ending at the main compound on the shore of Newcomb Lake. The compound included an experimental farm located approximately 1 mile into the road leading to the main house. The farm provided most all of the food served at Santanoni, including bacon, ham, milk, beef, and a wide array of vegetables and fruit. Many of the original farm buildings are still standing and in relatively good condition and are slowly being stabilized and preserved. They include a creamery and smokehouse as well as farm foreman’s residence and others. The cattle barn burned to the ground on July 13, 2004, in what was suspected to be an arson fire.
Here's what's left of the cattle barn:

The main complex

The central lodge is a grouping of six separate buildings—the main living and dining lodge with two bedrooms upstairs; four sleeping cabins with a total of seven bedrooms; and a kitchen and service building with seven staff bedrooms. All these were connected by a common roof and porch. The porches alone occupy 4,000 square feet of space. 1500 spruce trees were used in the massive log structures. Santanoni is an amazing example of rustic Adirondack Architecture and classic log construction.
Surrounding the main lodge on the lake shore are a boathouse and an artist's studio. In the woods behind the main lodge was another caretaker's home, a workshop, an ice house, and an assortment of service buildings. A little farther away, on the road from the farm, were two more staff houses and another horse and carriage barn. Many of these structures are unfortunately no longer standing.

Santanoni is designated as a State Historic Site, a National Historic Landmark, and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Adirondack Architectural Heritage (AARCH) has been directly involved with its restoration and protection as well as interpretation of the preserve. AARCH offers several tour opportunities with interpretive guides throughout the year, including three during the winter.

AARCH tours

In September, as part of the Teddy Roosevelt Weekend, AARCH offered a weekend of guided tours. We jumped on board for the Sunday morning wagon ride and tour. The best part — it was free this weekend! If you’ve never been, it’s a great way to get to the camp if you aren’t inclined to hike, bike, or ski the approximate 10-mile round trip on the road. The rather large group gathered on Sunday morning at the Santanoni Gatehouse, just off route 28N. We were greeted by none other than Teddy Roosevelt!

(Greetings by none other than Teddy Roosevelt!)

Two wagons soon arrived, one drawn by two imposing Belgian draft horses, the other by a spectacular trio of Haflingers — an Austrian breed, the smallest of all draft horses. To arrange your own wagon ride into the preserve you can contact Newcombe Farm at 518.639.5534.

As we loaded in the wagon, everyone was excited at the prospect of a quick way to get to Santanoni Great Camp. My husband and I had ridden our bikes in several years before. It was a great ride, although if you’re out of shape be advised … there is a long downhill on the way in that is just so much fun. However, when leaving on the return, that long downhill becomes a looooooooong uphill!! It’s not so much steep as it is long - about a mile or two. Once we got going in the wagon we hadn’t realized that the horse-drawn wagons go a LOT slower than a bicycle does. In reality it took nearly two hours to get to the main camp. Given that the average human walking speed is 3.1 miles an hour, one could conceivably walk those 5 miles a bit faster than riding in a wagon. Don’t get me wrong, the wagon ride was pretty cool, but if you are capable of walking the 12 miles round trip, and you don’t really want to sit for two hours, it might be faster. We did stop at the location of the farm buildings for about 10 or 15 minutes to explore that area, so that added some time to the trip in.

The ride in

At any rate, the wagon ride was beautiful and we actually got to look around more because we weren’t speeding along on our bikes watching the road for bumps that could land us in the ditch if we weren’t alert. The primarily deciduous forest was awash with sunshine on this spectacular mid-September day, causing dappling and dancing starburst lighting on the trees and little brook that follows the road. As we approached the main camp area, we crossed a stone bridge, allowing us views up into the Duck Hole (great for paddling we are told - if you can get your boat there), and out onto Newcomb Lake on the other side. Along the road in that area were a couple of very nice grassy campsites (first-come, first-served, and free) complete with stone fireplaces and picnic tables.

Put this on your bucket list

Visiting Great Camp Santanoni should be high on everyone’s list of things to do. The ongoing restoration and stabilization is, of course, a work in progress. The buildings are open round the clock all summer until around Columbus Day, when they start closing and shuttering them for winter. You can walk through and see the buildings any time you arrive there. The main floor of the main house, the boathouse, the artist studio, and two of the buildings at the farm location are all open for exploring. Yes, there are rules for visiting - respect the historic buildings and treating them as an historic site should be treated. The big one is you can’t sleep in the buildings. There are other guidelines as well that you can find on the AARCH web page about Santanoni Preserve.
If you go, bring a lunch and drinks as it’s a pretty full 6-hour (or more) trip to fully explore and enjoy the experience. There are picnic tables on the main lodge porches for enjoying a meal in shade and comfort. Take time to wander through the buildings and imagine yourself enjoying a summer vacation here in the early 1900s. Skiing the road in winter offers a completely different perspective. Read this blog about the winter ski experience.

The boathouse

One of the best parts of the compound is the boat house, which was restored in recent years from very poor condition. Inside the boathouse are several canoes, a rowboat, and a single kayak that are available for use by anyone -— again, first-come, first-served. There are life jackets and paddles at the ready for exploration of Newcomb Lake. Definitely take advantage of this wonderful amenity! We didn’t have time to do so on our visit, but we’ll go back for this. Exploring Newcomb Lake by boat is not easy without these boats - it’s a very long carry to get your own boat in there.

(Inside the boathouse - the small fleet of boats available for anyone to use on a first-come, first-served basis.)

Our AARCH guide clued us in to the fact that the westerly-facing location and design of the house utilizes the late afternoon sunlight, which lights up all the rooms facing the lake in the late afternoon. So that’s a great time to visit just for that reason. Many design features were created based on observations Robert Pruyn had made of Japanese architecture while traveling in Japan with his father when he was 14. The experience influenced his lifetime fascination with Japanese culture and art and influences many aspects of the Preserve structures.

Below are several photos from around the main camp area, both inside and outside the buildings.


(Looking at the main camp from the shore of Newcomb Lake)

(View of Newcomb Lake from the front of the main camp)

(Fireplace in main lodge of Santanoni)

(The expansive porches of Santanoni occupy over 4,000-square feet - this is only a small portion!)

(Refrigeration and walk-in cooler. Room on left was the smoked meat storage. It still smells like bacon!)

(DEC Historic Preservation employee Jennifer Betsworth (green sweater) gave the tour and history of Santanoni)

(This corner of the front porch is dedicated to painting restoration by summer interns)

(The upper porch roof construction allows sunlight in to bathe the interior and porch areas in late afternoon light)

A sad ending to private ownership of Santanoni

The history of private ownership of Camp Santanoni has a sad ending. A family by the name of Melvin, from Syracuse, NY, purchased the estate in 1953. In 1971, the Melvin and extended family members were gathered at the estate for one last time before the property was to be sold to New York State. On July 10th some of the family, including 8- year-old Douglas Legg, a grandson of one of the Melvins, set out on a hike. Douglas was supposedly improperly dressed for the outing and was sent back a couple hundred yards to the camp to put on long pants and proper shoes. He was never seen again. One of the biggest manhunts in New York State history ensued, with no results. To this day, there has been no trace of Douglas Legg found.

For a complete history of the Santanoni Preserve, visit the AARCH website. There you can download a pdf file: “A Visitor’s Guide to Camp Santanoni”, which includes a detailed history of the compound. The AARCH site also has a map for you to explore.

If you plan a winter trip to Santanoni, read this blog about skiing the wagon road to the camp. It's just as beautiful in the winter. AARCH conducts winter tours on three weekends during winter: Martin Luther King, Presidents' Day, and mid-March.

(Skiing the wagon road to Santanoni is a beautiful way to spend a day in winter!)

Plan a weekend or weekday overnight to visit the rich historic destinations in and around Newcomb. Explore the area's lodging options and make your plans soon!

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